Hey I've been in Rome for a couple days now. We saw a lot of the Roman ruins like the Forum and the Colloseum, and walked around much of the city. We're staying at a really cheap hostel by a fish market so it smells like old fish all the time. Im having a lot of fun, but this city is really expensive. Its almost impossible to find lunch for under 10 euros (which is like 15 USD), and dinner is much, much worse. Also, restaurants here charge for ridiculous things like bread, water, and sometimes even sitting down to eat. The food isn't as incredible as people make it to be, though. Definitely not 40 euros incredible, which is how much I spent on a pasta and a piece of chicken for dinner last night.
Im going to try to get on skype on christmas day, even though I dont know if any shops will be open, so leave your skypes on and Ill try to swing by to say "hi". Im using internet cafes right now, so internet time is pretty pricey.
I dont know if Ill be able to last through paris right now, which is going to be even more expensive. Hopefully Todd's friend comes through, and we can crash on his floor and save hostel fees. Otherwise, its going to be about 30 euros a night to stay in a cheap hostel on top of food and other touristy costs.
My favorite thing so far is the Italian people. They are absolutely hilarious--yelling out of cars, arguing in the streets and using very animated hand gestures. A lot of people here speak english, which is nice. Im going to check out the vatican today, probably since its almost xmas.
All for now, ciao
2 comments:
This is from a 2004 Washington Post Article on cheap eats in Rome. It advised waving the bread basket away so you don't get charged for the roll...
The following spots aren't listed in the Michelin guide, but rest assured, they're local favorites. All have no smoking rooms or areas, and all but the first place accept credit cards.
• La Montecarlo (Via Alessandria 106; Metro: Castro Pretorio).
This corner eatery -- discovered after a visit to nearby Villa Borghese -- with arched ceilings and thick tables serves wood-fired oven pizza (forno a legna) on crust so thin you can almost read through it. Nonetheless, the dough is sturdy enough to support toppings such as baked wild mushroom slivers or tomato and mozzarella wedges. Personal-size pizza is large enough to share, but we didn't. Salads are enormous bowls of mixed greens, red onions and good black olives dressed lightly in oil. Your bill will be written on the paper tablecloth. We paid about $28 for pizzas, salads and a carafe of wine.
• Il DuCa Ristorante-Pizzeria (Vicolo de' Cinque 56; Metro: none; cross Ponte Sisto).
Il DuCa's front windows are excellent for people-watching in Trastevere, Rome's medieval neighborhood. Our table was private in a cozy, rustic room. We had traditional Roman dishes: saltimbocca, thin veal slices with sage and prosciutto sauteed in white wine, and bucatini all'amatriciana, penne pasta in tomato pancetta sauce dusted liberally with grated Pecorino cheese. A tempura-battered platter included mozzarella cheese, squash blossoms and rice tomato croquette. It's easy to see why Il DuCa's lasagna is legendary: My noodles were extremely light, allowing the ground sirloin, thick tomato sauce and melted cheeses to dominate. Go early if you don't have reservations. With wine, we paid $39.72 for two.
• Ristorante la Soffitta (Via dei Villini 1; Metro: Castro Pretorio and Policlinico).
This is one of Rome's hottest spots for true pizza Napoletana -- not thin, not Sicilian, kind of in between. On a weeknight, the downstairs pizzeria was packed. Eating here is like watching theater -- servers glide through the room balancing pans up to three feet wide. Pan size depends on how many people are eating; the bigger the group, the bigger the pan. Located in a quiet embassy area not far from Porta Pia, La Soffitta serves pastas, meat and fish in a more dimly lit room upstairs. There are less expensive places for pizza, but go for its incomparable chewy crust. A massive pizza margherita and huge glasses of merlot cost $29.46. No reservations taken for the pizzeria.
• Ristorante Il Sorriso (Via Flavia 63-65; Metro: Repubblica).
Fish is the specialty at this cheery, yellow-walled place with pale blue tablecloths near Plaza Sallustrio, but the menu is wide. We went à la carte: I followed delicately sauteed veal scallopine with creamy, slightly peppery pasta carbonara. The swordfish was perfectly grilled, and the spaghetti with clams and garlic was among the best pasta of our trip. We watched as fresh pineapples and pears destined for dessert were plucked from a deli case topped with bottles of Chianti and chocolate syrup. Strolling musicians -- a guitarist and a saxophonist -- wove through tightly packed tables for tips. With a pitcher of house wine, we paid $55.24.
• Angelo Trattoria/Pizzeria (Via Gioberti 35/A; Metro: Termini).
The train station area isn't known for good dining, and guides say it should be avoided after dark. But I found a touristy place (dead giveaway: a menu in several languages) to recommend. Not far from the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, Angelo's has fixed-price menus and a large à la carte selection, as well as pizzas for less than $4. Plus, it serves dinner early. Brocade tablecloths and wood panels give Angelo's a homey touch. My four-course meal consisted of zucchini-laden vegetable soup, roast chicken, lemon-laced spinach and zabaglione, a white cake with cream filling. Another good choice was roast beef, meaty lasagna, green salad and a fresh fruit medley. With bread, a bottle of Peroni beer and espressos, we paid $32.42.
Mario the waiter brightened my spirits when he played a joke on me; he pretended to spill my espresso, but it was an empty cup attached to a string. I'm popping in to see him on my next visit.
PS - When I travel to save $$, I eat my main meal at lunch...it is usually cheaper than dinner. Also visit some grocery stores and just buy bread, cheese, a sausage, yogurt or whatever and make a picnic. Be sure to try some real Italian pannatone while you're there! It is the special Italian christmas bread.
cheers,
georgia
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